Tracking the chimpanzees of Gishwati
Sunday, September 20, 2009 at 3:27pm

With our field station crew of scientists and research assistants leading the way, we head out at 7 a.m. for Gishwati: Forest of Hope in search of chimpanzees. The children from Kinihira school shout and wave as we walk along the road at the base of their school. We enter the forest around 8 a.m. and head for a sector where fresh chimpanzee signs were seen the previous day. After 3 ½ hours of hiking over the demanding terrain, we’ve seen very little and stop for a much-needed rest, drink of water and lunch.

Shortly after we resume the trek, we come across a group of black and white mountain monkeys and we’re able to shoot some nice video.

By early afternoon we finally hear chimpanzees and proceed in that direction, our guides looking for sign. We find freshly eaten bamboo, wadges (chewed up balls of vegetation) and feces. Dr. Rebecca Chancellor, field station director, suggests we exit the forest’s cut trail and proceed off-path along the chimpanzees’ trail. A tough haul becomes exponentially more difficult as we scramble up the steep slopes using saplings and vegetation for handholds. We press on, though, encouraged by more chimpanzee vocalizations and fresher signs. It’s clear to Dr. Chancellor that the apes are very near. But despite the good signs we’re coming across, the afternoon is waning and it’s obvious the chimpanzees are moving as we move – aware of our presence and staying one step ahead of us. As this game of great ape hide and seek wears on, we wear out. It’s now mid-afternoon and we have a long hike back to the field station. Those of us not used to these treks over the Rwandan hills are exhausted and the difficult decision is made to give up for the day and return to the field station – taking consolation in the fact we hear apes and saw plenty of sign.

We no sooner start back for the trail when a series of pan hoots fills the forest. The chimpanzees we’ve been tracking are in the treetops within 30 meters of us. We scramble for position and begin videotaping the chimpanzees – two adult males, Kajority and Mabara. A third, unidentified chimpanzee is also in the area. They patiently sit while we gaze at them through binoculars and capture them on videotape. A perfect ending to what has been a textbook example of tracking wild chimpanzees.

We remain for about 30 minutes until the rains come and we’re forced to stow our gear and make for the long return hike home. We are at the farthest point in the Gishwati Forest from where we began. By day’s end, we log a 10 ½ hour day – 90 minutes negotiating muddy trails in a heavy Rwandan rain. It is among the most physically demanding days of my life and one of the most rewarding. It’s most likely an experience that will only be appreciated by those of us who went through it – a day the chimpanzees gave us a tour of Gishwati: Forest of Hope.

Kinihira boy on the road with us at the start of the day.

Our team trekking through Gishwati.